Creator · Japan
Craig Mod has spent seven years proving that a few thousand readers who actually care will pay for better work than a few million who do not
Craig Mod
Walked a thousand kilometres of an old Japanese highway in forty days and made it a book about toast
In 2019 Craig Mod walked the Nakasendo, the old highway that runs between Tokyo and Kyoto, on foot. Forty days, about a thousand kilometres. The book that came out of it is called Kissa by Kissa, and it is substantially about pizza toast.
That sounds like a joke until you understand what a kissaten is: the mid-century Japanese coffee shop, an institution built around a specific idea of hospitality and a small menu that almost always includes thick toast. They are disappearing, quietly, as the people running them get old. He walked a thousand kilometres between them and photographed and wrote what was there while it was still there. The book is now on its sixth edition, which is an unusual number of editions for a self-published photobook about toast.
The economics nobody else runs
The reason this exists is a membership programme called SPECIAL PROJECTS, now in its seventh year. Members pay him directly and get the newsletters, the members-only podcasts, the lectures, the discounts on the books, and in a real sense the books themselves, because the membership is what makes producing them possible.
Seven years is the part worth sitting with. A membership programme is easy to launch and brutal to sustain: every month you owe people something good, forever, with no advertiser to blame and no algorithm to hide behind. Most people who try this quietly fold it back into sponsorships within two years. He has run it long enough that it now funds books, walks, physical production and a second imprint, and he writes an annual public accounting of how it is going.
He describes the trade as choosing beauty over scale. In practice that means a few thousand people who genuinely care, rather than a few million who scroll past, and the freedom to spend forty days walking because that is how long the walk takes.
The walk is the method
Ridgeline goes out weekly and is nominally about walking, which undersells it. Walking is the instrument: it moves slowly enough to see a country at the resolution most people miss, and it produces the kind of writing you cannot do from a desk. Roden goes out monthly, on books and design and Japan.
Things Become Other Things started as a daily pop-up newsletter written while he walked the Kii Peninsula in 2021, then became a self-published book in 2023, then got picked up by Random House in 2025. That order matters. It went to a major publisher having already proved itself to the people who paid for it, rather than the other way round.
He has been in Japan since 2000 and is at work on another book. If you want the argument for slowness made by somebody who has actually run the experiment for twenty-five years, it is here, and it comes with photographs.
Members produce books, newsletters, longform essays, podcasts, walks, and more together.
How SPECIAL PROJECTS describes itself, which is a strange and better description of an audience
The Rundown
The things Craig has actually shipped.
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Kissa by Kissa
A thousand kilometres of the Nakasendo, the vanishing kissaten, and pizza toast. Sixth edition.
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Things Become Other Things
A pop-up newsletter from the Kii Peninsula that became a book, then got picked up by Random House.
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Ridgeline
Weekly, on walking. The most consistent long-running argument for going slowly on the internet.
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SPECIAL PROJECTS
Seven years of readers paying him directly, which is what makes all of the above possible.
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Roden
Monthly, on books, design, photography and Japan.
Common questions about Craig Mod
- Who is Craig Mod?
- Craig Mod is a writer and photographer who has lived in Japan since 2000. He is known for long walks across the country, for the books that come out of them including Kissa by Kissa and Things Become Other Things, and for the newsletters Ridgeline and Roden. His work is funded by a membership programme called SPECIAL PROJECTS.
- What is Kissa by Kissa?
- Kissa by Kissa is Craig Mod's book about walking roughly 1,000 kilometres of the old Nakasendo highway in Japan over forty days in 2019, and about kissaten, the mid-century Japanese coffee shops he walked between, and their pizza toast. It is now in its sixth edition.
- What is SPECIAL PROJECTS?
- SPECIAL PROJECTS is Craig Mod's membership programme, in its seventh year as of 2026. Members fund his work directly and receive members-only newsletters and podcasts, lectures, discounts on his books and involvement in the projects. It is the financial and, in his description, emotional backbone of almost everything he makes.
- What is Things Become Other Things?
- It is Craig Mod's walking memoir, which began as a daily pop-up newsletter written while he walked the Kii Peninsula in 2021. He self-published it through SPECIAL PROJECTS in 2023, and Random House published it in 2025.
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